Nylon is the engineering material of choice for 3D printed parts that need to survive real-world use. Gears, hinges, bushings, snap-fits — if it needs to be strong, flexible, and wear-resistant, nylon is the answer. But nylon is also one of the most demanding filaments to print. This guide covers everything you need to succeed.

Why Nylon?

Nylon (polyamide, often abbreviated PA) offers a combination of properties no other common filament can match:

Exceptional impact resistance: Nylon parts bend and flex instead of snapping. Drop a nylon part on concrete and it bounces; a PLA part shatters.
Wear resistance: Nylon handles friction and abrasion better than almost any other printable plastic. Gears and bushings last dramatically longer in nylon than PETG or PLA.
Chemical resistance: Resistant to many oils, greases, and fuels. Great for automotive and mechanical applications.
Flexibility with strength: Nylon is stiff enough for structural parts but flexible enough to absorb impacts and vibration.
Self-lubricating: Nylon has a naturally low coefficient of friction, making it ideal for sliding and rotating parts.

Types of Nylon Filament

Nylon 6 (PA6)

The most common nylon for general engineering. Good all-around properties, moderate moisture absorption. Prints at 250-270°C.

Nylon 6/6 (PA66)

Higher melting point and better mechanical properties than PA6, but harder to print. Requires 270-290°C. Used when maximum strength is needed.

Nylon 12 (PA12)

Lower moisture absorption than PA6 and easier to print. Slightly lower strength but much less prone to warping. A good starting point for nylon beginners.

Carbon Fiber Nylon (PA-CF)

Nylon reinforced with chopped carbon fibers. Dramatically increased stiffness and reduced warping, but requires a hardened steel nozzle (carbon fiber destroys brass nozzles in hours). This is the go-to for strong, stiff engineering parts.

The Drying Problem

Here's the critical thing about nylon: it absorbs moisture from the air aggressively. A spool left out overnight can absorb enough water to ruin your prints. Wet nylon produces:

Popping and hissing sounds during extrusion (steam escaping)
Rough, bubbly surface texture
Poor layer adhesion — parts delaminate easily
Stringing everywhere
Reduced mechanical properties

How to Dry Nylon

Nylon must be dried before every printing session unless it's been stored in a sealed container with desiccant:

Filament dryer: 70-80°C for 6-12 hours. Yes, that long. Nylon holds moisture stubbornly.
Oven: 70°C for 6+ hours. Use an oven thermometer to verify temperature — many ovens run hot enough to deform the spool.
Print from a dry box: The best approach is a sealed enclosure with desiccant that feeds filament directly to the printer. The filament stays dry during the entire print.

Printer Requirements

Not every 3D printer can handle nylon. Here's what you need:

All-Metal Hot End (Required)

Nylon prints at 240-290°C. PTFE-lined hot ends (like the stock Ender 3) max out around 240°C and the PTFE starts degrading at those temperatures, releasing toxic fumes. You need an all-metal hot end — most modern printers (Bambu Lab, Prusa MK4, Voron) include one.

Enclosed Build Chamber (Strongly Recommended)

Nylon warps aggressively as it cools. An enclosure keeps the ambient temperature elevated, reducing the temperature differential between layers. Without an enclosure, expect warping on anything larger than small parts. Printers like the Bambu Lab X1C, Voron 2.4, or any printer with an aftermarket enclosure work well.

Build Surface

Nylon doesn't stick to most build surfaces. Your options:

Garolite (G10/FR4): The gold standard. Nylon bonds excellently to garolite. Available as replacement build plates for most printers.
PEI with glue stick: Works for smaller parts. Apply a heavy layer of PVA glue stick.
PEI with specific adhesive: Vision Miner Nano Polymer adhesive or Magigoo PA are formulated for nylon.

Hardened Nozzle (For Carbon Fiber Variants)

If printing carbon fiber nylon, install a hardened steel, tungsten carbide, or ruby nozzle. Carbon fiber will bore out a brass nozzle within a single spool, turning your 0.4mm nozzle into a 0.6mm nozzle and ruining dimensional accuracy.

Recommended Print Settings

Nozzle temperature: 250-270°C (PA6/PA12), 270-290°C (PA66)
Bed temperature: 70-90°C on garolite, 80-100°C on PEI
Print speed: 40-60mm/s. Nylon benefits from moderate speeds.
Cooling fan: Off or very low (0-20%). Nylon needs to stay warm for layer adhesion.
Retraction: Minimal — nylon is stringy by nature. Focus on travel speed and combing instead of excessive retraction.
Infill: 25-50% for functional parts. Nylon's flexibility means you often need more infill than you'd use with PLA.

Best Use Cases for Nylon

Gears and pulleys: Wear resistance + self-lubrication = long-lasting gears
Living hinges: Nylon flexes thousands of times without cracking
Snap-fit enclosures: The flexibility allows clips that actually work repeatedly
Bushings and bearings: Low friction, no lubrication needed
Tool handles and jigs: Impact-resistant and comfortable to grip
Automotive components: Heat, chemical, and vibration resistant

Get Nylon Filament at Forgely Roy

We stock nylon filament and carbon fiber nylon at Forgely Roy, along with the accessories you need: filament dryers, hardened nozzles, garolite build plates, and desiccant storage containers. Our team can help you choose the right nylon type for your project and walk through the settings for your specific printer.

📍 Forgely Roy — 5519 S 1900 W, Roy, UT 84067
📞 385-449-2694
⏰ Mon–Fri 11–6 • Sat 11–3

Nylon Filament Guide: Properties, Settings & Best Practices